1999
1999 Overview
Mount Rainier National Park spent over $150,000 on mountain related search, rescue and recovery in 1999. Many of these costs were related to extensive searches for lost mountaineers on the route to Camp Muir, the mountains’ most popular high camp. Inclement weather played a significant role in these accidents and continually hindered the efforts of search teams throughout the year.
If Mount Rainier had a Bermuda Triangle, the route to Camp Muir would be it. This popular climb on a clear day is straightforward and benign; in poor weather however, it has many hazards, most particularly cliffs and crevasses that mark its perimeter. Four serious incidents in 1999 exhibit the difficulties. Climber’s Corroone and Gallagher nearly disappeared after a serious crevasse accident in April, wandering only 100 yards off the main route. John Repka did the same in May however he was found dead four months later in an icefall just east of the snowfield. William Tietjen left Camp Muir on a snowboard and vanished into a whiteout last June, while experienced and well equipped climbers Hartonas and Vakili never returned after departing on a trip to Camp Muir in November. Separate incidents, similar weather conditions, and the same location.
Poor planning and team skills also led to a number of call-outs and small-scale rescues. Climbers continue to test their mettle on Rainier yet some lack the skills and fortitude to pull out of trouble when conditions are less than ideal. Cell phones enable these teams to quickly notify officials of emergencies, but they have also allowed them to call for help sometimes sooner than they really need. A few climber assists, not detailed below, involved teams who were unable to pull their resources together and work through difficult, yet possible situations. In some cases, climbers have called for help after a series of poor decisions that left them in over their heads.
On one occasion, two climbers were warned by rangers at high camp not to ascend further under the poor weather conditions. The team, however, continued only to become pinned down on route. There they used a cell phone to alert rangers, who recommended digging in, waiting out the weather, and only using the phone for further communication with the park, especially if the team felt they were in danger. The team reported having bivy gear, food and water and they were informed that the weather was predicted to improve within 24 hours. The distressed team, however, continued to route-find on the glacier despite the advice of not doing so in a whiteout. Twelve hours later, rangers again received a phone call, this time from the climbers’ parents who were extremely concerned that their son’s were on the mountain and in dire need of help. Upon becoming lost again, the climbers decided to call home, leaving their parents with the impression that danger was imminent. Unfortunately their cell batteries were now dead, direct communication was impossible and a SAR had to be organized. Climbing rangers dispatched from Camp Schurman found the team a few hours later located only 30 minutes off route. They were in their bivy gear and for the most part doing fine. The weather was clear and winds calm however the climbers asked, "when is the helicopter coming". After a strong rebuke, the two mustered their resources and descended off the mountain without any further aid.
On a similar yet more inspiring note, two climbers, off duty NOLS instructors, were ascending the Liberty Ridge route in May when they overcame another two-person team on the Carbon Glacier. The seasoned NOLS team noted that the slower moving climbers did not assist with trail breaking and also requested belays once on route. Despite the faster team’s urge to quickly finish the climb and get off the mountain, they instead elected to ascend with the pair assisting them along the way. Unfortunately the weather deteriorated significantly and what ensued were seven days of rationed survival in snowcaves on the upper Liberty Ridge, summit and Disappointment Cleaver. The foursome combined resources and preserved, perhaps a more tragic accident was prevented by such generosity?
If one obstacle could be planned for when climbing Mount Rainier, it’s bad weather. No amount of gear, stamina or technical skill will get you up the mountain if the weather is ragging. When route finding and moving safely becomes desperate, if not chaotic, dig in, sit tight and wait out the storm. Climbers have proven time and again on Mt. Rainier that it is possible to survive numerous days on limited water and food without requiring assistance. Fighting through storms and wandering around in whiteouts frequently leads to larger problems. Lastly and equally important, climb other mountains with your partners before attempting Mount Rainier. Don’t let the slopes of Rainier be your team’s first mountain school; the tuition can be extremely expensive for the taxpayer and the learning curve may cost you your life.
Fall on ice, unroped solo climbing, Gibraltar Ledge (Eddy SAR)
On March 21st, climber E. Dawes Eddy, 56, fell 1600 feet while soloing the Gibraltar Ledge route on Mount Rainier. A four-person climbing team on the same route witnessed the accident and subsequent tumble down the 40-50 degree icy Gibraltar Chute. Eddy’s fall was arrested where the slope angle decreased onto the Nisqually Glacier. One member of the witnessing party used a cell phone to alert the National Park Service while another member down climbed to Eddy.
During the fall, Eddy had sustained bone fractures to his lower right leg and possible internal injuries. That climber helped to stabilize Eddy and stayed with him while the other members of his team returned to Camp Muir to retrieve a rescue liter. The Park Service dispatched a helicopter with rangers Brenchley, Turner and Winslow. They were flown near the accident site where they climbed to Eddy with rescue gear, litter and medical supplies. Eddy was prepared for extrication and lowered to the helicopter, then flown to a hospital.
Observations:
Eddy had an extensive amount of experience climbing Mount Rainier both solo and in the winter and therefore understood the risk of his undertaking. Solo climbers in the winter should expect hidden crevasses, poor weather, and most notably, no back up. Eddy was fortunate that another team was on the same route and witnessed the fall. He stated that no particular event caused the slip to occur, only that he recalled losing his footing and quickly falling backwards, sliding out of control before he could get into a self-arrest position. Note that the slope angle was steep, 50 degrees, and the snow was hard and icy. Eddy was wearing his helmet and attributed his survival to this fact. There had also been a significant amount of snowfall that winter. This coated the normally rock exposed gully and he felt the snow helped to cushion his tumbles and prevent more serious injuries.
Crevasse fall, unroped travel, weather, Muir Snowfield-Paradise Glacier (Corroone/Gallagher SAR)
Michael Corroone, 51, and Dan Gallagher, 36, set out to climb Mount Rainier on April 11th. Severe weather prevented a summit attempt and they began descending back to Paradise on April 12th. High winds, low visibility and whiteout conditions continued, forcing them to follow compass bearings down the Muir Snowfield. Near 8,800 feet, the unroped pair simultaneously fell into a deceptively covered crevasse on the Paradise Glacier, the eastern edge of the Muir Snowfield. Gallagher's backpack caught on the slender entrance and he was able to extricate himself. Corroone, however, slipped through the crack and disappeared into the crevasse.
Gallagher set up a snow anchor and lowered a rope to Corroone however Corroone was wedged in such a way that he could do little to assist himself or tie off on the rope. Gallagher then resorted to his cell phone and called 911, reaching an operator in Oregon after waiting for some time for cell service coverage. The call was transferred to the Mount Rainier communications center and a rescue was initiated.
Ranger’s Gauthier and Mallard while patrolling at Camp Schurman were notified of the accident and reported that the weather was improving on the upper mountain. A helicopter dispatched from Seattle transported the rescuers from Camp Schurman to the 9,200 feet level on the Muir Snowfield above the accident site. They descended to the crevasse where Gallagher was awaiting assistance. Gallagher reported that his partner had been trapped in the crevasse for over 2 hours and there had been no communication between them for the last hour and a half. New rescue anchors and rope were quickly put in service and Gauthier hastily rappelled into the crevasse to assess the situation. Eighty feet below, he found Corroone alive, however very hypothermic and tightly wedged between the icy walls of the crevasse. He was suspended from his armpits by his backpack straps like a parachutist trapped in a tree. Corroone was unable to feel or use his arms and could little more than press his legs against the crevasse walls to prevent slipping further.
For over an hour Gauthier dangled, working at times upside down to dislodge Corroone from his trapped position. Once Corroone was freed from his pack and snowshoes, he was pulled onto a small ledge and stabilized in a harness. Mallard and Gallagher then hoisted him to the surface with a Z pulley system.
The helicopter returned to fly Corroone off the mountain (the weather seemed to be improving.) Shortly after it reinserted, a cloud enveloped the landing zone and super-cooled rime ice quickly coated the rotors and turbine intakes of the ship. The helicopter could no longer achieve lift and became grounded. Pilot Uttecht stated, "I don’t want to, but I have shut down." Limited daylight and bivouac resources increased the urgency of the new situation. Ice was scrapped from the rotors and turbine intakes of the helicopter with snow pickets. After 30 minutes of ice removal, the clouds again cleared and Uttecht decided to try a flight with only Corroone on board. Conditions continued to improve and Corroone was safely lifted off the mountain before sunset. Uttecht then flew subsequent missions to retrieve Gallagher, the rescue gear, Gauthier and Mallard.
Observations:
Corroone and Gallagher made the right decision to use a compass for navigation when descending under such adverse weather conditions. Traveling unroped is also a common practice on the snowfield. What caused them difficulty was the blowing wind and snow. Despite following the correct compass bearing, strong winds easily blew the team off course. Consider a small airplane flying on bearing; add a strong crosswinds and the airplane will slowly be blown off route, even though the bearing remains the same. This is what happened to Corroone and Gallagher. The crevasse fall occurred roughly 100 yards from the main route taken by thousands of climbers in the summer.
Although Gallagher did a good job setting up snow anchors and a lowering a rope, this accident demonstrates that more may be necessary to rescue your partner from a crevasse. Climbers that have fallen in a crevasse cannot always help themselves and teams should always take this into consideration. If the partner falls, can the second member set up the anchors AND rappel into a foreboding crevasse to render assistance? Many teams elect to go with a minimum of 3 members (4 in the winter) to alleviate some of this stress. Climbers turned rescuers need to be mentally prepared for this daunting task. The pair was fortunate on many accounts. One, that they both didn’t fall all the way into the crevasse; two, that their cell phone worked (they don’t always on Rainier) and three, that two rescuers happened to be on the mountain during the very early season.
Although it was clear when the helicopter landed, the landing zone did not remain as such after a few minutes of waiting. Weather conditions seemed to be improving however a rouge cloud made the rescue much more interesting and stressful. It was also fortunate that the helicopter did not require more deicing in harder to access places. Additionally, if the weather had not cleared, it would have been a long night for pilot with only a flight suit and leather jacket, not to mention, Corroone in his severely hypothermic condition.
Lost climber, poor planning, logistics and teams skills, weather, Muir Snowfield-Paradise Glacier (Repka SAR)
John Repka, 51, was last seen alive descending the Muir Snowfield on May 16th during a planned day climb with the group One Step At a Time (OSAT). Repka fell behind the main group because he was feeling ill, vomiting and moving slowly. Near 9,000 feet, he turned around with other group members on their descent from Camp Muir. Repka followed the team but could not keep up. Near 8,000 feet in a whiteout, a member of the group warned Repka that he was heading too far west and possibly off route. That group continued to descend believing Repka was either behind them, or that he would be met by another part of the team still descending from Muir.
When the team regrouped in the parking lot and Repka had not arrived, they began communication with him over a two-way radio (which some members were using). Repka wasn’t certain, but radioed that he was near Panorama Point. They lost contact with him after 5:30 p.m., in that conversation, Repka stated that he didn't know his location. A climbing ranger and a volunteer were notified at Camp Muir and they descended the snowfield attempting to locate him that night. They ran into zero visibility and eventually had to give up.
Teams comprised of rangers, mountain rescue volunteers, guides and friends of John Repka searched intensely for the following 8 days. Poor visibility, heavy precipitation, high winds, and hazardous terrain hampered their work. Helicopters and air scent dogs greatly aided search efforts during 2 days of clear weather. The primary search area was thoroughly covered however a significant amount of new snow fell during the week. The active search was called off on day 9 after no clues were found. Rangers remained on alert for potentially emerging clues as the snow melted throughout the summer.
In September during a routine maintenance helicopter flight, pilot Jess Hagerman spotted a body matching the clothing description of Repka in an icefall. It was located near 8,100 feet on the Paradise Glacier (very near where Corroone had fallen). Climbing rangers were flown to the site where they descended to the body and confirmed the observation. Repka was found in his bivy sac next to his ice ax, backpack and 2 way radio. He had died from exposure, not traumatic injuries, and his remains were flown off the mountain.
Observations:
John Repka should not have been left alone. When team members are falling behind, feeling sick and struggling in poor weather, make the extra efforts to coordinate and stay with them. If one thing can be learned from this accident, it’s to stay together and communicate when in teams, especially large ones where organization and management are problematic. Repka was part of 50 plus person group that day, somehow though, misunderstandings and assumptions led to him being left behind. The radio also provided a false security. Don’t rely on radios, cell phones and other electronic devices as substitutes for critical communication, navigation and survival needs.
Fall on steep ice while skiing, unroped travel, Liberty Ridge (Perrson SAR)
A climber at Thumb Rock high camp on the Liberty Ridge called Mount Rainier National Park with a cell phone on the evening of May 24th to report that his climbing partner was missing after a skiing accident on route. David Perrson, 31, was telemarking Liberty Ridge from the top when he lost an edge and cartwheeled out of control, disappearing down the Willis Wall. Perrson fell from the 12,500-foot level near the Black Pyramid, a 50-60 degree icy section of the route.
Ranger’s Brenchley and Gauthier flew reconnaissance the next morning and identified a body at the 9,800-foot level on the Carbon Glacier. The body lay in the avalanche debris cone of Thermogensis, a climbing route notorious for ice and rock avalanches. Shortly after spotting Perrson, a tremendous avalanche of ice ran the route and partially covered the body. Recovery operations were postponed due to the increasing daytime temperatures and obvious objective hazards. Plans were then drawn for a predawn recovery next morning before the sun warmed the ice cliffs above.
On May 26th, pilot Hagerman inserted rangers Gauthier and Olson at sunrise near the accident site however no sign of Perrson could be found. Pilot Uttecht flew avalanche reconnaissance while ranger’s Gottlieb and Patterson provided safety and support for the recovery team. An hour of search was needed to locate the body. It had been pushed a substantial distance down-slope and reburied by successive avalanches the previous day. There was no chance that Perrson survived the fall and moved under his own power. The body was retrieved without incident and flown off the mountain.
Observations:
David Perrson was an accomplished climber and athlete. He soloed Liberty Ridge the day before just after reaching high camp, then telemarked back down it that evening. His fatal accident occurred the following day on his second ascent and subsequent tragic decent. His partner joined him on the ascent but decided that the skiing conditions weren’t for him and instead elected to down climb back to Thumb Rock. He witnessed the accident and then climbed to the last seen edge to look for Perrson and render aid. Unfortunately, there was no sign of his partner. Only experienced and highly skilled climbers should consider ski descents on technically challenging routes. Perrson clearly understood the level of commitment and risk involved in such extreme adventures and sadly paid the price for his passion.
Dropped gear, inadequate food and fuel, weather, Liberty Ridge (Matelich/Sverdrup SAR)
A cell phone call late June 30th revealed that Mike Matelich and Larry Sverdrup were stranded on Liberty Ridge and in need of assistance after dropping one of their packs. The pack was lost while breaking camp from an unplanned bivouac above Thumb Rock. Unfortunately, the pack contained their ice screws, which, the team felt were necessary to safely complete the route. Complicating maters, one member was having crampon troubles and the weather was deteriorating. Another forced bivy in a crevasse and a few broken cell phone calls later expressing their concern initiated a rescue.
A helicopter was dispatched that evening and inserted teams of rangers at the base of Liberty Ridge and Camp Schurman. A cloud cap prevented flights above 10,000 feet. It was hoped that one of the teams would climb the mountain and meet the stranded climbers on route, assisting them off the mountain. Whiteouts and high winds however thwarted rescue plans that night.
The weather the next day had cleared sufficiently allowing a US Army Reserve helicopter to land near the summit with an eight-person rescue team. Climbing ranger Olson, Mountain Rescue volunteer Ellsworth and Rainier Mountaineering guides Rausch and T. Richards down-climbed the 55-degree slope beneath Liberty Cap to meet Matelich and Sverdrup. Rausch and T. Richards met the stationary team at 2 p.m. near 13,600 feet. Matelich and Sverdrup began climbing again that morning after receiving 3 ice screws from another passing team. They were, however, seriously dehydrated and exhausted and their progress was extremely slow. With the assistance of the rescuers, the pair climbed the remainder of the route and were flown off the summit that evening.
Observations:
Matelich and Sverdrup were having a string of bad luck. Inattention to securing gear and a few broken and desperate sounding cell phone calls later led to a rescue. The team commented that they wished they had slept on it "before calling for a rescue... cell phones make it all too easy to bail…" They also wished that they had brought more fuel with them to melt water. A few days in a snowcave without water also made self-help much more difficult.
Liberty Ridge combined with bad weather pins down teams nearly every year on Mount Rainier. Climbers frequently underestimate how strenuous and time consuming the route is, not to mention how bad weather (and in this case a dropped pack) will disrupt their schedules. Those attempting grade III and IV remote routes on Rainier should carry extra fuel; fuel provides an excellent resource during mountain layovers.
Missing climbers, severe weather, Muir Snowfield (Hartonas/Vakili SAR)
Chris Hartonas, 40, and Raymond Vakili, 48, disappeared while climbing to Camp Muir on November 5th. Hartonas and Vakili were experienced mountaineers and both men had been to Camp Muir before. Hartonas was an avid park visitor and mountain climber, known by many on the Park Service staff for his frequent ascents to Camp Muir, particularly under adverse weather conditions.
The pair was last seen ascending Panorama Point by a third member of the team who elected to turn around shortly into the trip. At that time, a summit cloud cap was forming and the weather was deteriorating. Severe weather intensified that evening however conditions improved significantly the following morning and remained mostly clear through the 7th. When the pair did not return as scheduled on 7th, missing planned airtravel and work, a search was initiated.
An extensive 10-day search ensued, Park Rangers, Rainier Mountaineering Guides, Volunteer Mountain Rescue, friends of the men, and search dog teams participated. Severe weather that included heavy snowfall and rain, high winds and whiteouts hampered efforts throughout much of the operation. US Army Reserve and private helicopters supported ground teams with aerial reconnaissance during periods of clear weather. The search was concluded on Nov 16th, no clues of the two climbers were found.
Observations:
This was the fourth serious incident on the Muir Snowfield in 1999. Without clues, it’s difficult to speculate what exactly happened to the men. It’s perplexing when two experienced, cautious and mature climbers just disappear. They were well equipped and Hartonas was very familiar with the area. Both men have a history of good decision making in the mountains and neither had a reputation for "pushing it." Efforts to locate them will resume this summer when the winter snowfall begins to melt. It is hoped that clues will be revealed.
Fall on ice, roped travel without use of protection, Cowlitz Cleaver (Anderson/Garmin/Rausch SAR)
While searching for missing climbers Hartonas and Vakili on Nov 15th, three rescuers sustained serious injuries after falling off the Gibraltar Ledges route. Park Ranger Asha Anderson, 20, and Rainier Mountaineering Guides Ashley Garmin, 41, and Art Rausch, 38, were searching along the Cowlitz Cleaver when the accident occurred. The rope team of three was part of a five-person search team looking for clues along the route Hartonas and Vakili may have attempted to ascend. Anderson had just joined Garmin and Rausch on their climbing rope to cross an exposed icy gully at 10,400 feet. While traversing the chute, Anderson lost her footing and fell, pulling Garmin and Rausch despite everyone’s aggressive efforts to self-arrest. The team of three slid and tumbled uncontested down the 45-degree water ice slope for nearly 600 feet before coming to a rest on the upper Muir Snowfield near 9,900 feet. Search team leader Joe Puryear witnessed the accident and radioed for emergency assistance as the trio slid out of sight.
Another field search team was quickly dispatched to an emergency landing zone where a Chinook Helicopter, also doing aerial search, picked them up. That team, along with another aerial reconnaissance team in a smaller helicopter, was re-inserted near the accident site. Together, they provided a very rapid rescue, airlifting the injured searchers off the mountain. During the fall, Anderson had sustained two broken ankles and ribs; Garmin had head lacerations and a broken back, while Rausch escaped virtually unscathed with only a broken rib. All were seriously sore and bruised.
Observations:
The five-member search team was inserted near Camp Muir that morning with a helicopter to search technical terrain above Camp Muir. Conditions on the mountain were unique at the time; hard thick water ice covered everything between 8000 and 12000 feet. It was as though a glass of water had been poured on the mountain and allowed to freeze.
Puryear’s team searched the Camp Muir area first, then began a searching ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver towards the "Beehive." It was believed that Hartonas and Vakili might have ascended the cleaver and bivied there. At the time, Garmin and Rausch roped up because they would be searching along the edge of the glacier while Anderson, Puryear and S. Richards remained unroped, searching along the fourth class cleaver. The team reconvened near 10,400 feet to cross a steep gully. Puryear and Richards successfully crossed the chute first. During that time however, Rausch noticed that Anderson was concerned about the situation. He offered her to join his rope team, which she did, then they continued across the chute. Anderson could not recall what caused the slip, but once the slide started, it proved impossible to stop. Garmin and Rausch felt they could provide a team self-arrest however the ice proved too hard and their axes bounced off. As the team tumbled faster, everyone believed that, "this is it."
There are times when using a rope can be more dangerous than not. Much of Rainier’s climbing terrain is moderate. It may not be technically hard or super exposed, but the fall of one member would easily mean the sweep of an entire rope team off the mountain if protection were not used. Rausch observantly noted Anderson’s apprehension but better communication amongst the entire team about each individual’s skills and the terrain hazards may have lead to the decision to belay or place snow/ice protection along the route.
Mount Rainier National Park spent over $150,000 on mountain related search, rescue and recovery in 1999. Many of these costs were related to extensive searches for lost mountaineers on the route to Camp Muir, the mountains’ most popular high camp. Inclement weather played a significant role in these accidents and continually hindered the efforts of search teams throughout the year.
If Mount Rainier had a Bermuda Triangle, the route to Camp Muir would be it. This popular climb on a clear day is straightforward and benign; in poor weather however, it has many hazards, most particularly cliffs and crevasses that mark its perimeter. Four serious incidents in 1999 exhibit the difficulties. Climber’s Corroone and Gallagher nearly disappeared after a serious crevasse accident in April, wandering only 100 yards off the main route. John Repka did the same in May however he was found dead four months later in an icefall just east of the snowfield. William Tietjen left Camp Muir on a snowboard and vanished into a whiteout last June, while experienced and well equipped climbers Hartonas and Vakili never returned after departing on a trip to Camp Muir in November. Separate incidents, similar weather conditions, and the same location.
Poor planning and team skills also led to a number of call-outs and small-scale rescues. Climbers continue to test their mettle on Rainier yet some lack the skills and fortitude to pull out of trouble when conditions are less than ideal. Cell phones enable these teams to quickly notify officials of emergencies, but they have also allowed them to call for help sometimes sooner than they really need. A few climber assists, not detailed below, involved teams who were unable to pull their resources together and work through difficult, yet possible situations. In some cases, climbers have called for help after a series of poor decisions that left them in over their heads.
On one occasion, two climbers were warned by rangers at high camp not to ascend further under the poor weather conditions. The team, however, continued only to become pinned down on route. There they used a cell phone to alert rangers, who recommended digging in, waiting out the weather, and only using the phone for further communication with the park, especially if the team felt they were in danger. The team reported having bivy gear, food and water and they were informed that the weather was predicted to improve within 24 hours. The distressed team, however, continued to route-find on the glacier despite the advice of not doing so in a whiteout. Twelve hours later, rangers again received a phone call, this time from the climbers’ parents who were extremely concerned that their son’s were on the mountain and in dire need of help. Upon becoming lost again, the climbers decided to call home, leaving their parents with the impression that danger was imminent. Unfortunately their cell batteries were now dead, direct communication was impossible and a SAR had to be organized. Climbing rangers dispatched from Camp Schurman found the team a few hours later located only 30 minutes off route. They were in their bivy gear and for the most part doing fine. The weather was clear and winds calm however the climbers asked, "when is the helicopter coming". After a strong rebuke, the two mustered their resources and descended off the mountain without any further aid.
On a similar yet more inspiring note, two climbers, off duty NOLS instructors, were ascending the Liberty Ridge route in May when they overcame another two-person team on the Carbon Glacier. The seasoned NOLS team noted that the slower moving climbers did not assist with trail breaking and also requested belays once on route. Despite the faster team’s urge to quickly finish the climb and get off the mountain, they instead elected to ascend with the pair assisting them along the way. Unfortunately the weather deteriorated significantly and what ensued were seven days of rationed survival in snowcaves on the upper Liberty Ridge, summit and Disappointment Cleaver. The foursome combined resources and preserved, perhaps a more tragic accident was prevented by such generosity?
If one obstacle could be planned for when climbing Mount Rainier, it’s bad weather. No amount of gear, stamina or technical skill will get you up the mountain if the weather is ragging. When route finding and moving safely becomes desperate, if not chaotic, dig in, sit tight and wait out the storm. Climbers have proven time and again on Mt. Rainier that it is possible to survive numerous days on limited water and food without requiring assistance. Fighting through storms and wandering around in whiteouts frequently leads to larger problems. Lastly and equally important, climb other mountains with your partners before attempting Mount Rainier. Don’t let the slopes of Rainier be your team’s first mountain school; the tuition can be extremely expensive for the taxpayer and the learning curve may cost you your life.
Fall on ice, unroped solo climbing, Gibraltar Ledge (Eddy SAR)
On March 21st, climber E. Dawes Eddy, 56, fell 1600 feet while soloing the Gibraltar Ledge route on Mount Rainier. A four-person climbing team on the same route witnessed the accident and subsequent tumble down the 40-50 degree icy Gibraltar Chute. Eddy’s fall was arrested where the slope angle decreased onto the Nisqually Glacier. One member of the witnessing party used a cell phone to alert the National Park Service while another member down climbed to Eddy.
During the fall, Eddy had sustained bone fractures to his lower right leg and possible internal injuries. That climber helped to stabilize Eddy and stayed with him while the other members of his team returned to Camp Muir to retrieve a rescue liter. The Park Service dispatched a helicopter with rangers Brenchley, Turner and Winslow. They were flown near the accident site where they climbed to Eddy with rescue gear, litter and medical supplies. Eddy was prepared for extrication and lowered to the helicopter, then flown to a hospital.
Observations:
Eddy had an extensive amount of experience climbing Mount Rainier both solo and in the winter and therefore understood the risk of his undertaking. Solo climbers in the winter should expect hidden crevasses, poor weather, and most notably, no back up. Eddy was fortunate that another team was on the same route and witnessed the fall. He stated that no particular event caused the slip to occur, only that he recalled losing his footing and quickly falling backwards, sliding out of control before he could get into a self-arrest position. Note that the slope angle was steep, 50 degrees, and the snow was hard and icy. Eddy was wearing his helmet and attributed his survival to this fact. There had also been a significant amount of snowfall that winter. This coated the normally rock exposed gully and he felt the snow helped to cushion his tumbles and prevent more serious injuries.
Crevasse fall, unroped travel, weather, Muir Snowfield-Paradise Glacier (Corroone/Gallagher SAR)
Michael Corroone, 51, and Dan Gallagher, 36, set out to climb Mount Rainier on April 11th. Severe weather prevented a summit attempt and they began descending back to Paradise on April 12th. High winds, low visibility and whiteout conditions continued, forcing them to follow compass bearings down the Muir Snowfield. Near 8,800 feet, the unroped pair simultaneously fell into a deceptively covered crevasse on the Paradise Glacier, the eastern edge of the Muir Snowfield. Gallagher's backpack caught on the slender entrance and he was able to extricate himself. Corroone, however, slipped through the crack and disappeared into the crevasse.
Gallagher set up a snow anchor and lowered a rope to Corroone however Corroone was wedged in such a way that he could do little to assist himself or tie off on the rope. Gallagher then resorted to his cell phone and called 911, reaching an operator in Oregon after waiting for some time for cell service coverage. The call was transferred to the Mount Rainier communications center and a rescue was initiated.
Ranger’s Gauthier and Mallard while patrolling at Camp Schurman were notified of the accident and reported that the weather was improving on the upper mountain. A helicopter dispatched from Seattle transported the rescuers from Camp Schurman to the 9,200 feet level on the Muir Snowfield above the accident site. They descended to the crevasse where Gallagher was awaiting assistance. Gallagher reported that his partner had been trapped in the crevasse for over 2 hours and there had been no communication between them for the last hour and a half. New rescue anchors and rope were quickly put in service and Gauthier hastily rappelled into the crevasse to assess the situation. Eighty feet below, he found Corroone alive, however very hypothermic and tightly wedged between the icy walls of the crevasse. He was suspended from his armpits by his backpack straps like a parachutist trapped in a tree. Corroone was unable to feel or use his arms and could little more than press his legs against the crevasse walls to prevent slipping further.
For over an hour Gauthier dangled, working at times upside down to dislodge Corroone from his trapped position. Once Corroone was freed from his pack and snowshoes, he was pulled onto a small ledge and stabilized in a harness. Mallard and Gallagher then hoisted him to the surface with a Z pulley system.
The helicopter returned to fly Corroone off the mountain (the weather seemed to be improving.) Shortly after it reinserted, a cloud enveloped the landing zone and super-cooled rime ice quickly coated the rotors and turbine intakes of the ship. The helicopter could no longer achieve lift and became grounded. Pilot Uttecht stated, "I don’t want to, but I have shut down." Limited daylight and bivouac resources increased the urgency of the new situation. Ice was scrapped from the rotors and turbine intakes of the helicopter with snow pickets. After 30 minutes of ice removal, the clouds again cleared and Uttecht decided to try a flight with only Corroone on board. Conditions continued to improve and Corroone was safely lifted off the mountain before sunset. Uttecht then flew subsequent missions to retrieve Gallagher, the rescue gear, Gauthier and Mallard.
Observations:
Corroone and Gallagher made the right decision to use a compass for navigation when descending under such adverse weather conditions. Traveling unroped is also a common practice on the snowfield. What caused them difficulty was the blowing wind and snow. Despite following the correct compass bearing, strong winds easily blew the team off course. Consider a small airplane flying on bearing; add a strong crosswinds and the airplane will slowly be blown off route, even though the bearing remains the same. This is what happened to Corroone and Gallagher. The crevasse fall occurred roughly 100 yards from the main route taken by thousands of climbers in the summer.
Although Gallagher did a good job setting up snow anchors and a lowering a rope, this accident demonstrates that more may be necessary to rescue your partner from a crevasse. Climbers that have fallen in a crevasse cannot always help themselves and teams should always take this into consideration. If the partner falls, can the second member set up the anchors AND rappel into a foreboding crevasse to render assistance? Many teams elect to go with a minimum of 3 members (4 in the winter) to alleviate some of this stress. Climbers turned rescuers need to be mentally prepared for this daunting task. The pair was fortunate on many accounts. One, that they both didn’t fall all the way into the crevasse; two, that their cell phone worked (they don’t always on Rainier) and three, that two rescuers happened to be on the mountain during the very early season.
Although it was clear when the helicopter landed, the landing zone did not remain as such after a few minutes of waiting. Weather conditions seemed to be improving however a rouge cloud made the rescue much more interesting and stressful. It was also fortunate that the helicopter did not require more deicing in harder to access places. Additionally, if the weather had not cleared, it would have been a long night for pilot with only a flight suit and leather jacket, not to mention, Corroone in his severely hypothermic condition.
Lost climber, poor planning, logistics and teams skills, weather, Muir Snowfield-Paradise Glacier (Repka SAR)
John Repka, 51, was last seen alive descending the Muir Snowfield on May 16th during a planned day climb with the group One Step At a Time (OSAT). Repka fell behind the main group because he was feeling ill, vomiting and moving slowly. Near 9,000 feet, he turned around with other group members on their descent from Camp Muir. Repka followed the team but could not keep up. Near 8,000 feet in a whiteout, a member of the group warned Repka that he was heading too far west and possibly off route. That group continued to descend believing Repka was either behind them, or that he would be met by another part of the team still descending from Muir.
When the team regrouped in the parking lot and Repka had not arrived, they began communication with him over a two-way radio (which some members were using). Repka wasn’t certain, but radioed that he was near Panorama Point. They lost contact with him after 5:30 p.m., in that conversation, Repka stated that he didn't know his location. A climbing ranger and a volunteer were notified at Camp Muir and they descended the snowfield attempting to locate him that night. They ran into zero visibility and eventually had to give up.
Teams comprised of rangers, mountain rescue volunteers, guides and friends of John Repka searched intensely for the following 8 days. Poor visibility, heavy precipitation, high winds, and hazardous terrain hampered their work. Helicopters and air scent dogs greatly aided search efforts during 2 days of clear weather. The primary search area was thoroughly covered however a significant amount of new snow fell during the week. The active search was called off on day 9 after no clues were found. Rangers remained on alert for potentially emerging clues as the snow melted throughout the summer.
In September during a routine maintenance helicopter flight, pilot Jess Hagerman spotted a body matching the clothing description of Repka in an icefall. It was located near 8,100 feet on the Paradise Glacier (very near where Corroone had fallen). Climbing rangers were flown to the site where they descended to the body and confirmed the observation. Repka was found in his bivy sac next to his ice ax, backpack and 2 way radio. He had died from exposure, not traumatic injuries, and his remains were flown off the mountain.
Observations:
John Repka should not have been left alone. When team members are falling behind, feeling sick and struggling in poor weather, make the extra efforts to coordinate and stay with them. If one thing can be learned from this accident, it’s to stay together and communicate when in teams, especially large ones where organization and management are problematic. Repka was part of 50 plus person group that day, somehow though, misunderstandings and assumptions led to him being left behind. The radio also provided a false security. Don’t rely on radios, cell phones and other electronic devices as substitutes for critical communication, navigation and survival needs.
Fall on steep ice while skiing, unroped travel, Liberty Ridge (Perrson SAR)
A climber at Thumb Rock high camp on the Liberty Ridge called Mount Rainier National Park with a cell phone on the evening of May 24th to report that his climbing partner was missing after a skiing accident on route. David Perrson, 31, was telemarking Liberty Ridge from the top when he lost an edge and cartwheeled out of control, disappearing down the Willis Wall. Perrson fell from the 12,500-foot level near the Black Pyramid, a 50-60 degree icy section of the route.
Ranger’s Brenchley and Gauthier flew reconnaissance the next morning and identified a body at the 9,800-foot level on the Carbon Glacier. The body lay in the avalanche debris cone of Thermogensis, a climbing route notorious for ice and rock avalanches. Shortly after spotting Perrson, a tremendous avalanche of ice ran the route and partially covered the body. Recovery operations were postponed due to the increasing daytime temperatures and obvious objective hazards. Plans were then drawn for a predawn recovery next morning before the sun warmed the ice cliffs above.
On May 26th, pilot Hagerman inserted rangers Gauthier and Olson at sunrise near the accident site however no sign of Perrson could be found. Pilot Uttecht flew avalanche reconnaissance while ranger’s Gottlieb and Patterson provided safety and support for the recovery team. An hour of search was needed to locate the body. It had been pushed a substantial distance down-slope and reburied by successive avalanches the previous day. There was no chance that Perrson survived the fall and moved under his own power. The body was retrieved without incident and flown off the mountain.
Observations:
David Perrson was an accomplished climber and athlete. He soloed Liberty Ridge the day before just after reaching high camp, then telemarked back down it that evening. His fatal accident occurred the following day on his second ascent and subsequent tragic decent. His partner joined him on the ascent but decided that the skiing conditions weren’t for him and instead elected to down climb back to Thumb Rock. He witnessed the accident and then climbed to the last seen edge to look for Perrson and render aid. Unfortunately, there was no sign of his partner. Only experienced and highly skilled climbers should consider ski descents on technically challenging routes. Perrson clearly understood the level of commitment and risk involved in such extreme adventures and sadly paid the price for his passion.
Dropped gear, inadequate food and fuel, weather, Liberty Ridge (Matelich/Sverdrup SAR)
A cell phone call late June 30th revealed that Mike Matelich and Larry Sverdrup were stranded on Liberty Ridge and in need of assistance after dropping one of their packs. The pack was lost while breaking camp from an unplanned bivouac above Thumb Rock. Unfortunately, the pack contained their ice screws, which, the team felt were necessary to safely complete the route. Complicating maters, one member was having crampon troubles and the weather was deteriorating. Another forced bivy in a crevasse and a few broken cell phone calls later expressing their concern initiated a rescue.
A helicopter was dispatched that evening and inserted teams of rangers at the base of Liberty Ridge and Camp Schurman. A cloud cap prevented flights above 10,000 feet. It was hoped that one of the teams would climb the mountain and meet the stranded climbers on route, assisting them off the mountain. Whiteouts and high winds however thwarted rescue plans that night.
The weather the next day had cleared sufficiently allowing a US Army Reserve helicopter to land near the summit with an eight-person rescue team. Climbing ranger Olson, Mountain Rescue volunteer Ellsworth and Rainier Mountaineering guides Rausch and T. Richards down-climbed the 55-degree slope beneath Liberty Cap to meet Matelich and Sverdrup. Rausch and T. Richards met the stationary team at 2 p.m. near 13,600 feet. Matelich and Sverdrup began climbing again that morning after receiving 3 ice screws from another passing team. They were, however, seriously dehydrated and exhausted and their progress was extremely slow. With the assistance of the rescuers, the pair climbed the remainder of the route and were flown off the summit that evening.
Observations:
Matelich and Sverdrup were having a string of bad luck. Inattention to securing gear and a few broken and desperate sounding cell phone calls later led to a rescue. The team commented that they wished they had slept on it "before calling for a rescue... cell phones make it all too easy to bail…" They also wished that they had brought more fuel with them to melt water. A few days in a snowcave without water also made self-help much more difficult.
Liberty Ridge combined with bad weather pins down teams nearly every year on Mount Rainier. Climbers frequently underestimate how strenuous and time consuming the route is, not to mention how bad weather (and in this case a dropped pack) will disrupt their schedules. Those attempting grade III and IV remote routes on Rainier should carry extra fuel; fuel provides an excellent resource during mountain layovers.
Missing climbers, severe weather, Muir Snowfield (Hartonas/Vakili SAR)
Chris Hartonas, 40, and Raymond Vakili, 48, disappeared while climbing to Camp Muir on November 5th. Hartonas and Vakili were experienced mountaineers and both men had been to Camp Muir before. Hartonas was an avid park visitor and mountain climber, known by many on the Park Service staff for his frequent ascents to Camp Muir, particularly under adverse weather conditions.
The pair was last seen ascending Panorama Point by a third member of the team who elected to turn around shortly into the trip. At that time, a summit cloud cap was forming and the weather was deteriorating. Severe weather intensified that evening however conditions improved significantly the following morning and remained mostly clear through the 7th. When the pair did not return as scheduled on 7th, missing planned airtravel and work, a search was initiated.
An extensive 10-day search ensued, Park Rangers, Rainier Mountaineering Guides, Volunteer Mountain Rescue, friends of the men, and search dog teams participated. Severe weather that included heavy snowfall and rain, high winds and whiteouts hampered efforts throughout much of the operation. US Army Reserve and private helicopters supported ground teams with aerial reconnaissance during periods of clear weather. The search was concluded on Nov 16th, no clues of the two climbers were found.
Observations:
This was the fourth serious incident on the Muir Snowfield in 1999. Without clues, it’s difficult to speculate what exactly happened to the men. It’s perplexing when two experienced, cautious and mature climbers just disappear. They were well equipped and Hartonas was very familiar with the area. Both men have a history of good decision making in the mountains and neither had a reputation for "pushing it." Efforts to locate them will resume this summer when the winter snowfall begins to melt. It is hoped that clues will be revealed.
Fall on ice, roped travel without use of protection, Cowlitz Cleaver (Anderson/Garmin/Rausch SAR)
While searching for missing climbers Hartonas and Vakili on Nov 15th, three rescuers sustained serious injuries after falling off the Gibraltar Ledges route. Park Ranger Asha Anderson, 20, and Rainier Mountaineering Guides Ashley Garmin, 41, and Art Rausch, 38, were searching along the Cowlitz Cleaver when the accident occurred. The rope team of three was part of a five-person search team looking for clues along the route Hartonas and Vakili may have attempted to ascend. Anderson had just joined Garmin and Rausch on their climbing rope to cross an exposed icy gully at 10,400 feet. While traversing the chute, Anderson lost her footing and fell, pulling Garmin and Rausch despite everyone’s aggressive efforts to self-arrest. The team of three slid and tumbled uncontested down the 45-degree water ice slope for nearly 600 feet before coming to a rest on the upper Muir Snowfield near 9,900 feet. Search team leader Joe Puryear witnessed the accident and radioed for emergency assistance as the trio slid out of sight.
Another field search team was quickly dispatched to an emergency landing zone where a Chinook Helicopter, also doing aerial search, picked them up. That team, along with another aerial reconnaissance team in a smaller helicopter, was re-inserted near the accident site. Together, they provided a very rapid rescue, airlifting the injured searchers off the mountain. During the fall, Anderson had sustained two broken ankles and ribs; Garmin had head lacerations and a broken back, while Rausch escaped virtually unscathed with only a broken rib. All were seriously sore and bruised.
Observations:
The five-member search team was inserted near Camp Muir that morning with a helicopter to search technical terrain above Camp Muir. Conditions on the mountain were unique at the time; hard thick water ice covered everything between 8000 and 12000 feet. It was as though a glass of water had been poured on the mountain and allowed to freeze.
Puryear’s team searched the Camp Muir area first, then began a searching ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver towards the "Beehive." It was believed that Hartonas and Vakili might have ascended the cleaver and bivied there. At the time, Garmin and Rausch roped up because they would be searching along the edge of the glacier while Anderson, Puryear and S. Richards remained unroped, searching along the fourth class cleaver. The team reconvened near 10,400 feet to cross a steep gully. Puryear and Richards successfully crossed the chute first. During that time however, Rausch noticed that Anderson was concerned about the situation. He offered her to join his rope team, which she did, then they continued across the chute. Anderson could not recall what caused the slip, but once the slide started, it proved impossible to stop. Garmin and Rausch felt they could provide a team self-arrest however the ice proved too hard and their axes bounced off. As the team tumbled faster, everyone believed that, "this is it."
There are times when using a rope can be more dangerous than not. Much of Rainier’s climbing terrain is moderate. It may not be technically hard or super exposed, but the fall of one member would easily mean the sweep of an entire rope team off the mountain if protection were not used. Rausch observantly noted Anderson’s apprehension but better communication amongst the entire team about each individual’s skills and the terrain hazards may have lead to the decision to belay or place snow/ice protection along the route.
posted by Mike Gauthier at 11:02 AM
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